mac tonight tv3 at 8 i think....living the dream

picked up the book (remember original thread!), will read on my holiers next month.

I enjoyed. Complex person, mister Dora. I'm convinced he was schizophrenic (not mentioned in book).

Did he suffer from one or more of the following on a regular basis - delusions, hallucinations, disorganized speech (e.g., frequent derailment or incoherence), grossly disorganized or catatonic behavior, negative symptoms, i.e., affective flattening, alogia, or avolition. MP was a schizophrenic, and showed all the signs of it in his youth, and its a shame it was diagnosed earlier in his life. Dora sounds more like he has a personality disorder.

Wifes a psychiatrist, I helped her during her exams, I feel I could diagnose most mental issues at this stage

dora - deluded, disorganized (but obsessedly organised about some things), negative, possible alogia, possible avolition.

Just googled that.....say a lot of ppl have it

jayz they have a name for everything now

if they had a drug for that, civil service workers would be ridiculously productive!!!! myself included

Again, I havent read anything about the guy other then discussion here, and the odd article on surf websites, but the guys ability to bullshit to anybody and everybody for me would rule alogia out, and his drive to find empty waves would rule out avolition. The delusion would have to be complex, and would have had to rule/ruin his life - i.e. paranoid, delusions of grandeur (were talking proper grandeur here, not just that no-one else should be allowed out at Malibu) or bizarre (someone else is controlling your thoughts and actions, for example).

Must try and read the book I suppose!

about half way through the book, think its written pretty crap.

Disjointed, just assembled quotes, elongated magazine article really.
Lovely, accurate opinion of ireland in there

the fucker (dora, that is) would not be my first-choice of a surf trip buddy, but you have to hand it to the guy.

Rony, I'll drop it down to you when I'm done. Might be a little more difficult to get this one autographed though...

Just finished the book now.

I thought it was very good, well written, and approached in the only way that it could really be approached and contained within one book.

Through the book I do feel that I have a better understanding of him. I think he was just a surfer who wanted to surf for the act itself, and for none of the bullshit that surrounds it. Now and again he had to dip into the bullshit to continue to surf, and to also upset a few people along the way. I think he realised very early on what a selfish pursuit surfing is, and embraced it.

I do not think he had any mental problems, I do think he had a few emotional ones stemming from his childhood.

Still surfing during his sickness. F*ckin inspiration.

Good review!

Did the book mention dora travelling to Ireland? Read somewhere that he surfed here

yeah and said he hated it (which probably meant he loved it)!!

Its mentioned briefly, and in a fairly negative way. I think that was more to do with his frustrations concerning a certain female surfer not agreeing to join him in J-Bay. She was quite happy to carry on surfing in Ireland.

Linda Cuy, she lived in Ireland for the winter months from about '82 - late '90s and cali for the summer, good article in a recent surfers path with her about living in the NW, think she is also writting a book ? Its is a very negative look at Ireland in the book alright but as mpb says its prob frustration as she wouldnt go to J bay with him, the negative comments about Ireland are also in a letter to another ex girlfriend. His beloved Scooter boy that he called "his son" was got in Ireland though so he always had a part of Ireland with him

Was that the American woman who lived and surfed (longboarded) up in Easkey alot a few years back? Really long blond hair and good mellow long boarding style.