Go on so.
John
Nine and twenty years.
Live on the south east coast where it never gets good, honest. Go to Tramore, there's a bypass round Gorey now.
If I could surf naked and get away with it I would - I've a love/hate relationship with neoprene. It would also help in thinning out the crowds.
Girlfriend who also surfs has recently moved West, not that I needed any more excuses to head over there every weekend I can get away with it, but if it's on, I'm usually there, wherever there may be, and if it's a weekday, I'm probably skiving off work, so sssshhhh now.
Quiver includes a recently-reversed-over-with-my-van 5'6 fish, shaped by Brian K. of Cork Custom Shapes. Hoping it can be resurrected.
A 7'3 Circle-One mini-mal which was my bread & butter for about a year until I got a 6'8" thruster-fish hybrid, same shaper, not pop-out/epoxy though. Great board, a plague on anyone who say's otherwise.
Have a 6'6 Webber Afterburner (Surftech)...rarely surfed.
9'3 Fireball - or Terry's Chocolate Log as she's more affectionately known for reasons which have already been discussed on this forum. Have had her about 6 months now. Has taken me to places on waves I knew were possible but not on a longboard and not by me. The day she snaps I'll cry, break something else in a fit of rage, then order a new one.
Only place I've surfed outside of Ireland is France which is somewhere I've a lot of grá for and where I've been challenged the most surf-wise but give me a home break anyday with familiar faces in the water and an otherwise empty line-up.
First stood up on a 12' something windsurfer sans centreboard, fin/skeg when I was 8. Paddled onto waves using a canoe paddle as the board weighed a ton. Stood up, threw paddle away, headed for the beach or on rare occassions went down the line. If I'd left on the fin then things might have been different, but then the fin was lost one day by someone who took the board out windsurfing so that was that. Did that till I was 17. Went to college, lived a very unhealthy lifestyle for 4 years, went to Dublin for another 4 and continued polluting myself, found surfing (as in with a real surfboard with fins, a huge novelty at the time) 4 years ago and it's changed my life.
It's a rare day I meet another surfer I dislike, but if I do they're usually a shortboarder who think they're the next Occy. I make a point of dropping in on them.
Love big waves but can often be seen surfing what could only be described as toe-slappers. Ankle-slappers would be an exaggeration.
Yes, I'm a bona-fide surf-addict. Hopefully I'll die doing it, but not before either my knees have given up or my eyes have been burned out of my head.