I didn’t make it even as far as Sidi Infi, time was against me so I went as far as Mirleft then circled back towards Agadir through the mountains. (Worth checking out if it gets flat for a few days!)
I did intend to go much further south though, and did a bit of research.
History lesson coming up!
Basically it was abandoned by Spain in 1975 and Morocco claimed it as their own. They started moving troops in but trouble came from the local Saharawi tribes (backed by Algeria) who wanted to establish their own democratic republic. Morocco sent even more troops in to crush resistance. The UN managed to broker a cease-fire in 1991 and the Saharawis were promised a referendum to decide between independence and integration with Morocco, but it was never held.
Morocco pretty much own the place now, they developed all the infrastructure, brought in people from northern Morocco to populate the place, etc. But since the referendum was never held it doesn’t "officially" belong to them.
I don’t think theres been any violence for years, the dispute is just taking place in offices. There is still a huge army presence around though. I'm sure you'd be perfectly fine driving through, its not like its a warzone or anything. I'd say you're more likely to come to harm in a surfing or driving accident.
The two biggest towns Laayoune and Dakhala are supposed to be real shit holes, nothing to see, just military garrisons and red light districts..
The whole region is supposed to be fairly uninteresting compared with the Morocco to the north… I suppose it is just stony desert after all…
On the plus side theres no tax cos the government is trying to get people to move there so petrol will be a bit cheaper. The roads are supposed to be fairly savage too.
And of course the promise of unexplored, uncrowded waves…
Oh ya, you need a visa to get into Mauritania, they cost 200 dirham. If you’re driving through Casablanca you can get them in the embassy the same day you apply. The Mauriatnian government insist you use a guide to bring you over the border because of the risk of landmines!
Hope it works out for ya, lucky fecker!